Introducing the ReFashion Week 2022 Designer & Stylist of the Year
by Anne Whiting
Meet Mahdiyyah Muhammad and Terell McCollum, the winning Designer & Stylist of ReFashion Week 2022
Every year, the ReFashion Week Runway is honored to host some of New York City’s most creative upcyclers and secondhand stylists, from which a panel of high-profile judges from the sustainable fashion space select the stylist and designer who most exemplify the missions of ReFashion Week.
This year’s winners are Mahdiyyah Muhammad and Terell McCollum, apparel industry & design veterans whose creative careers are a series of extensive exporation and passion in the realms of intentional sustainable design and the power of secondhand styling.
Muhammad, whose patchwork pastel designs won our hearts with their textual reminders about how to make the world a better place, is a self-taught designer who also teaches healing workshops with educational organizations, galleries/museums, community organizations, and schools to provide healing fabric workshops. As a child, she designed clothes for her dolls using found materials like tights and stockings. By 11, she was hand-sewing reinventions of hand-me-down clothing and thrifted finds. Now, she runs an eponymous fashion label making one-of-a-kind pieces out of 100% reclaimed, bio-based, mono-materials—that is, fabrics that are not a blend of multiple fibers. (She emphasizes the high vibrational frequencies and medicinal qualities of natural textiles like linen, cotton, wool, and organic cotton, and opposes the destructive nature of synthetic fibers. You can read more about her use of healing fabrics on her ReFashion Week profile!)
And this year’s winning Stylist is Terell McCollum, whose bold, monochrome menswear looks proved that texture can do the talking, and that dressing in a single color can be as vibrant a choice as wearing the rainbow. McCollum is a stylist and creative visual merchandiser who has worked with Century 21, Target, Banana Republic, Club Monaco, and most recently, Goodwill. He “breaths, eats and sleeps fashion,” with the goal of helping people understand “the purpose, quality, and need for vogue.”
As the frenzy of our fashion show finally calmed down–just in time for Muhammad & McCollum to represent their titles at the Global Fashion Exchange & Fashion Revolution Earth Day events at Hudson Yards–we caught up with the creatives about their journey to and within fashion, their commitment to sustainability, and what winning this year’s RFW prize title means for them.
“It’s not lost on me that the ReFashion Week events makes it a point to highlight and showcase Black and Indigenous creatives in a space that isn’t always so welcoming or ready to include us despite our historical origins and ties to reinventing, reimagining, and resourcing.” -MM
What role did fashion play in your life growing up?
MM: I was the eight-year-old that proudly dressed themselves for school, and the outfits were actually pretty well put-together. I was into coordination, matching, color-blocking, and even monochromatic styling. Growing up I also created with whatever I could find, and was always keen on using creativity to be resourceful. When I realized I wouldn’t get endless doll clothes or accessories, I started making their outfits out of my mother’s stockings with runs in them, and discarded clothing.
TM: Growing up I was obsessed with how WOMEN DRESSED! I would love to watch my mother and aunts get dressed for outings, and church. I started looking at my mom’s magazine subscriptions (Vogue and Ebony). This sparked my style interest and love for couture clothing.
“I wear what I love unapologetically and with passion!” -TM
How did you decide to become a designer?
MM: I could say I became a designer when I started making my dolls’ clothes, or maybe when I cut my first pair of jeans into a pair of shorts, and turned the pant sleeves into a messenger bag with a pair of scissors. It honestly took me a while to consider any of that “Fashion.” I always just created out of necessity, but once I got deeper into attempting to recreate versions of what I saw in the magazines with what I had in my closet, the necessity grew into a vision. I saw my mother hemming a pair of pants by hand, and knew I wanted to try it. So, I went to the dollar store to buy my first sewing kit, and it took off from there.
What made you pursue fashion as a career?
TM: I became very passionate about learning about clothing, trends, and runway! I began watching all the couture shows, reading many magazines, books on fashion and style, and most importantly I decided to start working retail. Century 21 department stores was my first clothing retail job, and this place allowed me to meet a very close friend and co-worker who helped me realize my creativity when styling mannequins and merchandising. I became a visual merchandiser, and the experience sparked my passion for fashion!
A one-of-a-kind look from Mahdiyyah’s eponymous collection.
“I didn’t go to any formal school for Fashion or receive any technical training. I’m self-taught and believe that’s always afforded me endless space to grow my creativity, and help me to avoid any restraints on my practice.” -MM
How did the idea for your work originate and grow?
MM: As I grew, my practice did too. I didn’t go to any formal school for Fashion or receive any technical training. I’m self-taught and believe that’s always afforded me endless space to grow my creativity, and help me to avoid any restraints on my practice. I started by deconstructing simple items of clothing, and laying out all the pieces in front of me to get an understanding for how it was created. Doing this allowed me space to reimagine the original design into something that felt more like me. I’m always looking to expand and learn more about what I can do with what I have. The idea of being resourceful has carried over into my work because I create using recycled materials. Most of my work is upcycled, and each creation is new with no duplicates. After some travel and learning more about certain fabrics and their abilities to heal the body, I made a conscious decision to take things a step further and only create using bio-based, mono materials like organic cotton, linen, wool, and cotton.
How would you describe your style?
TM: My style is BOLD. I wear what I love unapologetically and with passion! I’m the guy who loves the color BLACK, vintage, couture, and overall a very well-made garment! I appreciate intricate designs, and all things that are OUT OF THE BOX! I’m not really trendy but my style sets its own Trend!
“I appreciate intricate designs, and all things that are OUT OF THE BOX!” - TM
How did you hear about ReFashion Week?
MM: My friend Halima [Garret, of Threads of Habit, a ReFashion Week 2020 Designer] participated a few years ago, and I remembered this when I saw her post their call for designers for the 2022 week. I decided to try it out, and they selected me to show on the runway.
TM: My friend Marcie Mars who I met while working for Century 21 (who I mentioned before) actually told me about it, and I was able to apply I believe on the very last day that applications were being taken!
Why is the ReFashion Week mission important to you?
MM: ReFashion Week’s mission is important because they’ve created a platform that showcases creatives in this space that isn’t always advertised or shared. It’s also not lost on me that the ReFashion Week events makes it a point to highlight and showcase Black and Indigenous creatives in a space that isn’t always so welcoming or ready to include us despite our historical origins and ties to reinventing, reimagining, and resourcing.
TM: Although I love a runway and couture I, like most, can’t really afford to purchase this, so I began thrifting years ago because I realized how “secondhand” [discards] to some are treasures to me! I fell in love with shopping thrift. It sparked even more once Marcie Mars actually referred me to work for Goodwill and I became the District Visual Merchandising Manager. This position opened my eyes, wallet, and heart to the bigger cause which was showing the world how you can be stylish and sustainable! Once I learned the ReFashion Week mission I just knew I had to apply to the competition and show my skill!
“This position opened my eyes, wallet, and heart to the bigger cause which was showing the world how you can be stylish and sustainable!” -TM
What does it mean to win ReFashion Week Designer of the Year?
MM: Winning the ReFashion Week Designer of the Year was a beautiful celebration and acknowledgement of the work I’ve been doing, and the energy I’ve put into my practice. It encourages me to continue creating, teaching, as well as sharing the knowledge, skills, and resources I have, while also pushing myself to reach higher. I loved the community I found amongst the other designers and stylists in this space. Another great benefit to showcasing my creations on this platform is the ability to reach and connect with more people who may not have been introduced to my work yet.
TM: Honestly the win, I cannot even explain how much it means the WORLD TO ME! Reason being is because I worked for many companies where I had to showcase my work but I never had an opportunity to display my talent and stamp my own name on it. Unfortunately I lost my job at Goodwill due to budget cuts during Covid, so I was feeling a bit discouraged! Then I learned about this competition, applied, won, and the president of Goodwill, Katie, was present in the audience, and her congratulations and conversation about how much I deserved this really made me feel like everything happens for a reason! I gained soooooo much from this experience. So much that I finally took time to make business cards and set forth a plan to make sure I continue to pursue this passion I have for the REST OF MY LIFE!!!
